Why Raise Backyard Chickens & Is It Legal?
Before you buy a coop or fall in love with a breed, take a moment to confirm you’re actually allowed to keep chickens where you live. You don’t want to be the person who pours time and money into a flock only to face a zoning complaint.
There’s something grounding about hearing a soft cluck in the morning or watching your flock scratch through fallen leaves for bugs. For many beginners, backyard chickens aren’t just about the eggs—they’re a gateway to a slower, more intentional way of life. Whether you’re on a quarter-acre lot in the suburbs or managing a full-fledged homestead, raising chickens can bring joy, food security, and a daily connection to nature.
Choosing the Right Chicken Breed
Start with 2–3 breeds that check your boxes. You’ll learn their quirks, personalities, and preferences over time—and you’ll be better prepared to add to your flock in the future.
Cold climates: Choose breeds with small combs (like Wyandottes or Orpingtons) to reduce frostbite risk.
Hot climates: Lighter breeds with large combs (like Leghorns or Andalusians) tolerate heat better.
If your area has temperature extremes, go for hardy, dual-purpose breeds that have been bred for survival—not just show.
Absolutely—mixing breeds is common in backyard flocks and actually helps you learn which ones you like best. Just be sure to choose birds with similar temperaments so nobody gets bullied. For example, pairing docile Orpingtons with hyperactive Leghorns might not go well.
How Many Chickens Should You Start With?
Start with at least 3 chickens. That’s the bare minimum for a functional, low-stress flock. Four to six is even better for egg production and social balance.
Chickens are deeply social. They sleep together, forage together, preen together, and form clear hierarchies—sometimes called the “pecking order.” A single chicken will be anxious, noisy, and vulnerable to predators. Even two birds can lead to bullying if one is more dominant.
Before finalizing your number, check your city or HOA rules. Many places allow backyard chickens but limit the number of hens you can keep.
Buying the Right Chicken Coop
Inside the coop: 4 square feet per chicken
In the run: 10 square feet per chicken
Roosting bar: 8–12 inches of space per chicken
Nesting boxes: 1 box per 3–4 hens
For 4 hens, your coop should be at least 16 sq ft (e.g., 4×4 feet), and the run should be 40 sq ft (e.g., 5×8 feet).
A good coop doesn’t have to be fancy, but it should be:
Spacious enough for your flock
Easy for you to clean
Safe from predators
Well-ventilated and dry year-round
Feeding & Watering Chickens the Right Way
Chickens need a balanced diet of protein, calcium, and essential nutrients to lay well and stay healthy. Store-bought feed provides this, and everything else (like kitchen scraps or scratch grains) is supplemental.
Water is just as important as food—especially for laying hens. Dehydration can stop egg production, stress the birds, and cause heat exhaustion.
Chickens prefer:
Cool water
Clean water
Access at all times
One hen drinks 1–2 cups of water per day, more in summer or when eating dry feed. Plan for 1–2 gallons per day for a 6-hen flock.
Daily, Weekly & Monthly Chicken Care
Morning Routine
Let chickens out of the coop (if you don’t have an automatic door)
Refill feeder if needed
Refresh water
Quick visual check for any signs of injury, lethargy, or odd behavior
Collect eggs (if you’re home during the day, you can wait until afternoon)
Evening Routine (Optional, but Helpful)
Collect eggs (again if needed)
Top off water—especially in summer
Close the coop securely to protect against predators
Tidy up feeder area if it’s been scratched or soiled
Weekly Tasks:
Clean poop boards under roosts (if you use them)
Fluff or top off bedding in nesting boxes
Rake or stir bedding on the coop floor (if using deep litter method)
Check for pests: Look under roosts and in corners for mites or lice
Inspect fencing and locks for weak points
Refill grit and oyster shell trays
Monthly To-Do List:
Deep clean the coop (scrape, sweep, scrub with diluted vinegar or poultry-safe cleaner)
Compost old bedding or spread in garden if aged
Check for signs of rodents: Look for droppings or chew marks
Inspect your hens’ feet for bumblefoot or other injuries
Check feed supply—ensure it’s fresh and stored in a rodent-proof container
Audit the run for drainage, dust bathing area quality, and shade
Chicken Health, Problems & First Aid
Before you can spot what’s wrong, you need to know what healthy chickens look and act like. A healthy hen is:
Bright-eyed, alert, and curious
Walking and scratching regularly
Eating and drinking consistently
Preening and dust bathing
Laying regularly (if at point of lay)
Sporting a red, plump comb and wattles
Common Chicken Health Issues
🦠 Coccidiosis
Most common in chicks or young birds
Caused by a parasite in the intestinal tract
Symptoms: Bloody or watery poop, lethargy, huddling, loss of appetite
Treatment: Medicated chick starter, or liquid Corid (amprolium) added to water
🪳 Mites & Lice
External parasites that live on skin or in feathers
Symptoms: Excessive preening, bald patches near vent, scabby combs or legs, reduced laying
Treatment: Clean coop thoroughly, dust birds with poultry-safe permethrin powder or spray; repeat in 7 days
💨 Respiratory Illness
Chickens are vulnerable to upper respiratory infections
Symptoms: Sneezing, wheezing, nasal discharge, gurgling
Causes: Dust, ammonia buildup, drafts, contagious illness
Treatment: Improve ventilation, isolate sick birds, consider VetRx or antibiotics (consult a poultry vet)
🦶 Bumblefoot
A foot infection from injury or poor roosts
Symptoms: Swollen footpad, black scab, limping
Treatment: Clean, soak, and treat topically—or consult a vet for severe case
Chicken First Aid Checklist:
Epsom salt – For soaking feet and soothing egg-bound hens
Blu-Kote or Vetericyn spray – Antiseptic for wounds (Blu-Kote also discourages pecking)
Disposable gloves – For wound care or parasite checks
Towels – For wrapping and calming injured birds
Tums (calcium carbonate) – Emergency calcium source for egg-bound hens
Syringes or droppers – For administering liquids or electrolytes
Corid (amprolium) – For treating coccidiosis
Poultry-safe wound ointment – Like Neosporin (no pain reliever added)
Digital thermometer – Coop temps, not body temps
Crate or small pen – For isolating sick or injured birds
Electrolyte powder or Nutri-Drench – For hydration support
Cold vs. Hot Weather Care for Backyard Chickens
Winter Coop Prep
Block drafts—but don’t seal everything. Chickens produce a lot of moisture. Without ventilation, condensation can lead to frostbite. Keep upper vents open and dry bedding below.
Deep litter method: Let bedding build up 8–12 inches deep. It insulates and generates gentle heat through composting.
Raise waterers off the floor to prevent freezing from ground contact.
Install a heated water base or switch waterers twice a day if you don’t have power.
Keeping Chickens Cool
Provide shade with tarps, umbrellas, or trees
Use shallow pans of water for wading (some hens love it!)
Add frozen water bottles or ice blocks to drinking water
Offer cold treats like frozen peas, chilled watermelon, or cucumber slices
Use electrolyte powder in water during heatwaves
Ensure at least two water stations so everyone has access
What About Roosters?
This is where you need to do some homework. While most cities and even suburban areas allow a handful of hens, many ban roosters entirely. It’s almost always due to the noise. Even in rural neighborhoods, homeowners’ associations may restrict or prohibit them.
If you’re unsure, check your local zoning laws and ordinances before deciding to keep a male bird. It’s not uncommon for first-time owners to discover the rules only after a neighbor complains.
If you’re in a rooster-friendly area and want to try keeping one, just be sure you have enough hens to go around. One rooster can easily overmate a small flock, which leads to stress, feather loss, and sometimes open wounds. Most experts recommend a minimum of 8–10 hens per rooster to keep the flock balanced.
When Chickens Start Laying & Egg Tips
Most hens begin laying around 18 to 22 weeks of age, though this depends on breed, diet, daylight hours, and even individual temperament.
Production breeds like Leghorns or Australorps may lay as early as 16 weeks.
Heavier breeds like Orpingtons, Cochins, and Brahmas might take closer to 24–28 weeks.
Season matters, too: Pullets maturing in fall may delay laying until spring unless they have supplemental light.
That means if you get chicks in March, you might see your first eggs in late July. If you raise them in September, they may not start until early spring—after the days begin to lengthen again.
Signs Your Hen Is Ready to Lay
✅ Collect eggs at least once a day
This keeps them clean, reduces the risk of breakage, and helps prevent hens from going broody or predators from being tempted.
✅ Offer supplemental calcium
Even with layer feed, some hens benefit from free-choice oyster shell or crushed eggshells to maintain strong shells—especially in summer heat or after illness.
✅ Watch for laying problems
Soft-shelled or no-shelled eggs can be caused by calcium deficiency, stress, or heat. If it happens occasionally, it’s fine. If it’s frequent, recheck their nutrition and overall health.
✅ Expect seasonal slowdowns
Shorter days = fewer eggs. Some breeds lay through winter with no problem; others stop completely until spring. You can add a light source on a timer (12–14 hours of light/day), but many backyard keepers let nature lead.
What to Expect in Your First Year of Raising Chickens
Month 1: Giddy. Overprepared. Taking 200 chick photos a day.
Month 3: Confident. Curious. Minor panic when someone sneezes.
Month 6: Egg ecstasy. Showing off your basket like a proud parent.
Month 9: Reality check. You lose your first bird to illness or a predator.
Month 12: Grounded. Capable. Ready to expand… or grateful you didn’t.
Your first year with chickens is messy, magical, and often filled with surprises. You’ll make mistakes. You’ll lose a bird or two. But you’ll also experience one of the most grounding parts of modern homesteading: caring for something that gives back every day.
And the best part? Year two is even easier.